Winks & Smiles, For Martine Rose SS23

Winks & Smiles, For Martine Rose SS23

“I just love people; they interest me,” - I-D

 You're better off calling Martine Rose's renowned, cult-followed fashion label a case study on people, 'wonky' people to be clear, as referring to it as a high fashion brand just won't cut it.  

Naomi Campbell and Goldie, two British mavericks in their respective fields, grace the newest edition of I-D Magazine's 'The Ultra' issue to commemorate the truly impressive work of the South London native - Martine Rose. 

 Rose's admiration for 'outsiders' started when she was young, growing up in the 90s in Clapham Common. House, grunge, techno and hip-hop were a few ingredients to the melting pot of music, subcultures, interests and lifestyles you'd encounter. Martine would recall the stories of being too young to join in with her older relatives to go out to impromptu raves but would always idolise the act of getting dressed.

Boxy peacoats, chunky boots, vinyl skirts, leather pants and striped shirts were many of the multitudes of clothes you'd see strapped to guys and gals living life to the fullest. From work to raves, the opportunities of being free were endless. 


Returning to the London Fashion Week Schedule in June, it was evident Martine wanted to bring this familiar mix of subcultures we all love and the element of physicality we all missed. The pandemic was unprecedented but it gave Martine time to focus in on the minute details that the normal eye would gloss over. Held in what was once an underground club, Martine brought the energy of 'sex clubs', 'the notion of cruising' and infused it into her collection. 

Pioneering the recent global menswear XXXL aesthetic under her consultancy tenure at Balenciaga with Demna; models hit the runway in her staple cropped boxy bomber, abnormally shorter sleeved biker jackets, dangling keychains and DIY earrings. There's no doubt Martine is the Queen of proportions, she's loved by Drake, Ye, Rihanna and many many more. 

Whilst we know you can't wait for SS23, see our AW22 offering at

By Luca Allick-Smith