We cheekily snuck the Berlin born brand in this season, forgive us for keeping it hush. Here's a brief dive into GmbH.
The brand was founded in 2016 by Turkish-German Designer Serhat Isik & Norwegian-Pakistani Photographer Benjamin Alexander Huseby, which at the time was "simmering away for years". The name "GmbH" is defined as a German 'company with limited liability', similar to our 'ltd'. The creative directors weren't keen on using their names as they were more interested in fostering a diverse community home and open to many, which is exactly what we see today.
For those that know the ins and outs of Berlin and its respective fashion, cultural and musical scene - heavily via its lauded nightlife truly understand the melting pot of styles, personalities and backgrounds its home to. Silhouettes and fabrics utilised throughout the brand - often leathers in the forms of jackets, tight-fitted tank tops & PVC trousers are almost a direct reflection of what the creative directors are surrounded by. Garments are comprised of dead stock fabrics from a high end factory in Milan, as a response to the overconsumption of clothes in the fashion industry.
What's interesting from the brand is most definitely the pieces they are pushing forward as 'wardrobe essentials' as well as their roster of collaborators and models they use for their shows/campaigns. As mentioned to Highsnobiety by Huseby: "Nobody used many models from India and Pakistan". GmbH work with a variety of talent - "with very different body types — non-binary, elderly, super buff — and from places across the world". Huge credit to them as they continue to put forward their views on the industry and surrounding climate in an artistic way.
Moving on to the collection in question - SS23, Isik & Haseby's success in bringing more of a full fledged womenswear offering as well as progressing the current GmbH story was a cohesive spectacle to behold. After almost 7 years it goes without saying they've found their feet and their audience; the level of confidence and comfort to bring forth sexy, sleek and elevated silhouettes as a normality, is probably the perfect situation anyone would like to be in.
Some highlights were the talisman prints in Arabic calligraphy by Berlin artist Abderlrazak Shaballot, translating to "safe from harm", "wisdom", and "knowledge" that were printed on to denim and dresses; as well as tailoring that featured smooth fabrics blurring the lines between evening wear and loungewear.
If you find comfort in never being dressed "casually" I'm sure GmbH is a brand for you to keep your eyes on. Take a look through some of their SS23 runway and our offering available online htown.co.uk/collections/gmbh & in-store.
By Luca Allick-Smith