To celebrate the start of London Fashion Week, we hosted a brunch for the htown community at Soho House. It was truly the calm before the storm, in what amounted to a particularly incredible fashion week for London’s latest roster of talent. But don’t take our word for it - we asked our guests for their take on the season ahead, from the designers to watch, to surviving fashion week (clue: it involves lipgloss, Lime bikes and a whole lotta gossip).
Daniel Yaw Miller - Senior Editorial Associate, Business of Fashion
What has been your standout show this season?
For me, Labrum London always shines through at LFW thanks to its championing of Sierra Leonean heritage and the stories of West African migration which are relevant to so many of us and so topical considering the contemporary geopolitical climate. This season was no different, and the brand revealed a star-studded line-up on the runway which included Arsenal legend Ian Wright and Wretch 32, as well as a beautiful Adidas Samba collaboration featuring the "Nomoli" figure.
What’s your favourite thing about London Fashion Week?
I love the platform it gives to young designers. It's less saturated by major fashion houses meaning developing design talent gets more attention on the schedule.
Name your one-to-watch designer.
Tolu Coker. I thought Tolu's debut show was another standout of this LFW. Excited to see what she has in store for future seasons!
"Sleep, Lime Bikes and More Sleep." - Daniel Yaw Miller, on surviving fashion week.
TJ Sidhu - Style and Culture Editor, The Face
What’s your favourite thing about London Fashion Week?
For me, it’s coming out and supporting the new, emerging designers that show each season. Compared to the big dogs in Milan and Paris, designers on home-turf often have ideas informed by real life simply because they are out there, on the ground, experiencing it first hand. That is style at its most pertinent; when whatever is happening in our nightclubs, pubs, football terraces, art exhibitions or the front-pages of newspapers are interpreted for the runway as original ideas that speak to a generation of youth on a personal level.
What has been your standout show this season?
Aaron Esh and Chopova Lowena. Esh picked up on the nuances of living in London for his debut solo show. Amongst the subtle signs of anxiety, seduction, grit and restlessness of a day that goes by in a flash was a deeply romantic study of tailoring for the modern wearer – slick, casual and so subversive. Chopova Lowena continued their storybook of mythical references and folklore traditions, this time transforming west London’s BaySixty6 Skate Park. Since graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2017, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena have built a wickedly riotous tribe that felt like its very own subculture coming to life this season, with moshers and punks coming out dressed in the brands kilts, layered hoodies and frilly prints against a nu-metal soundtrack, all looking like they were having the best time.
Name your 3 essential items for surviving fashion week.
Thumbs up emoji, gossip and evening plans south of the river.
"London's designers have more grit than those in other cities and will do things their own way apologetically". - Kati Chitrakorn, Vogue Business
Lewis Bloyce - Buyer, Hypebeast
What’s your favourite thing about London Fashion Week?
My favourite thing about London Fashion Week is the fact it still exists in some way. There's still a pool of talent here keeping the embers burning. We need to keep the fire alive, for the next generation.
What has been your standout show this season?
It's definitely between Labrum's show at The Four Seasons and Aaron Esh's breakout show.
Name your one-to-watch designer.
Keep your eyes on Aaron and Foday - don't blink!
Name your 3 essential items for surviving fashion week.
Burts Bees, Airpods & a mini perfume, you know how muggy it gets!
"That is style at its most pertinent; when whatever is happening in our nightclubs, pubs, football terraces, art exhibitions or the front-pages of newspapers are interpreted for the runway as original ideas that speak to a generation of youth on a personal level". - TJ Sidhu, The Face
Kati Chitrakorn - Senior Retail, Marketing and Beauty Editor, Vogue Business
Name your one-to-watch designer.
Aaron Esh. He's a very talented designer with big ambitions. His debut show at the Tate had no gimmicks and was solely focused on the craftsmanship of the clothes, something that has been a core part of his upbringing, having grown up in North London and with his family in the dry cleaning business. This season he also introduced sizing and styles for women. I'm excited to see how his brand develops.
What’s your favourite thing about London Fashion Week?
The talent. London's designers have more grit than those in other cities and will do things their own way apologetically. "Take it or leave it" is the prevalent energy here. Fashion weeks in general are also a great time for the industry to convene.
What has been your standout show this season?
Chopova Lowena. In a short space of time Emma and Laura have identified a very unique aesthetic and formed a very engaged community, many of whom attended their show wearing pieces from the brand, clearly having so much fun styling them in their own ways. The best designers have an impact on how people dress on the streets everyday, and not just on the runway.
"There's still a pool of talent here keeping the embers burning. We need to keep the fire alive, for the next generation". - Lewis Bloyce, Hypebeast
Photography - Kadir Gold
Words - Ella Aldersey-Williams